Jen OSullivan

Portrait Lighting Using Reflectors

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:45:40 +0000

Bright sun: too squinty. Under a tree: to dappley. What do you do? No usable shade (because, really, who wants a bunch of dots on their face?) and there is nothing but sun, sun, sun for miles. Diffusion panel to the rescue! Bring along an assistant and create your own shade. You can make your own by going to the art store and buying a 40×40 inch canvas frame (no canvas) and then find yourself some translum diffusion sheeting (only place in town I know of to get the stuff is at the Art Center Student Store in Pasadena.) Cut two pieces to fit on the frame and staple gun it down (one sheet on one side and one on the other.) This will cost you a total of about $15. Okay, seriously just go buy a 5 in 1 disc for 30 bucks. Click HERE for a good one.

You will get:
1. translucent (the one you will use most for the above situation)
2. white (for fill light — great for eyes)
3. black (for negative fill — to create deeper shadows)
4. gold (to warm up skin tones)
5. silver (to cool down skin tones)

I really only use the translucent and the gold.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Studio Strobe Lighting

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:42:43 +0000

Using strobe equipment for the first time can be scary for anyone, however, once tried, it is quite easy. One of my assistants, Kelly Schulte of Simi Valley asked: “What should I buy and how much should it cost?” If you are interested in getting into studio lighting I recommend buying the Calumet Travelite 750ws One-Head Umbrella Kit http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CE1454/ from Calumet in Los Angeles. It is a perfect starter kit for $680. When using strobe lighting it is just like your flash, only bigger. Here are a few tips:
1. Strobe is controlled by your aperture, not shutter speed. (you should be at 1/60 – 1/125 and then adjust your aperture until you get the desired exposure)
2. When you buy your kit, disassemble your umbrella so it is just the diffused white material and not the black with silver lining piece.
3. Position the diffusion umbrella as close to your subject as possible without getting it in the frame. This will allow the light to wrap softly around your subject.
4. Try using your ceiling as a light source. Take the umbrella off, and point the light straight up but slightly in front of your subject. You will obtain great soft light over your subject. (great for shooting babies.) The below shot was taken with this technique. It works well when you have a larger group.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

The Magic Hour

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:35:36 +0000

The Magic Hour. I hear this term thrown around a lot, but do people really know what it means? Most people think it is the hour before the sunsets or right after it rises. This is actually incorrect, but debatable. There is also something called the Golden Hour which is the hour BEFORE it sets and the hour AFTER it rises. It is totally different light. The Magic Hour is just before the sun rises and just after it sets. The sun can not be shining at all. Here is the reasoning: The sun creates harsh shadows, because relatively speaking it is a small, albeit strong light source due to how far away it is from us. The moment it dips below the horizon the entire sky becomes the light source and creates smooth, shadowless light. For photographers it is not really the Magic Hour, but more like the Magic Minute. If you are shooting still life, get your tripod and you will have a pretty good amount of time. If you are shooting people, it is not an easy task as everyone must be really still. The below shot was taken yesterday at just the moment the sun went down. I was at ISO 1600 because, can you really get an 8 month old to sit still? I needed all the help I could get to have a faster shutter speed. At this high ISO I was only able to shoot wide open at 1/60 sec. and 1/40 sec. Anyone who has ever shot kids knows that is not that fast. The other thing to remember: local sunset is not necessarily YOUR local sunset. I watched the sun and it dipped below the mountains at 7:05 a whole 7 minutes before it was supposed to based on the “local sunset time.” I only had 3 minutes before there was not enough light to continue shooting. Notice the rich tones, the reflection of the sky in his eyes, and how the light wraps around his face without creating any noticeable shadows. This is why it is Magic.

Camera: Canon 5D, Lens: Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS
Shutter Speed: 1/60 sec., Aperature: f/4.5, ISO: 1600
Date Shot: September 6, 2008
Location: Central Park, Santa Clarita, CA

Camera: Canon 5D, Lens: Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS
Shutter Speed: 1/40 sec., Aperature: f/4.0, ISO: 1600
Date Shot: September 6, 2008
Location: Central Park, Santa Clarita, CA

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Lighting

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:30:08 +0000

What do you see? Look around you… what do you SEE? Okay, now close your eyes. Close them really tight. Squeeeeeze those eyelids shut. Now what do you see? Okay, now open your eyes. What do you see? You see light. Light reflected off of objects. Without light we would see nothing at all. Without light photography would not be possible, nor would it be relevant. Lighting is what often times separates the amateurs from the pros. Because it is a make or break issue many amateurs or dabblers feel like it is an insurmountable mountain. I say, not so. You are a master of light but just don’t know it. You have experienced light your entire life. The only issue is that you have taken it for granted. You are okay with the green cast those florescent bulbs cast on your faces. You are okay with the dark circles the sun creates under your friend’s eyes at noon. All because your brain filters it out. Tricky, tricky. Our brains are very good at sly deception. Now, however, I would like you to overpower your brain and simply observe. Observe what light looks like. It is said (Urban Legend) that Eskimo’s have 400 words for snow (in fact they have 12). There are many more words for light. Here are a few to get you started: for sunlight (daylight) you have dappled, shade, diffused, direct, magic, golden, reflected… for non-daylight you have tungsten, florescent, halogen, neon… Don’t forget candle light from fire, or moonlight which is actually sunlight reflected off of the moon. Just look around you and you will know what looks good and what does not. A great rule of thumb when lighting people: the bigger the specular highlight the better the light will be. If all you see is a little spec, or no light reflecting in the eyes at all, you can be pretty certain you do not have good light. Observe, then shoot. Analyze, then shoot again. Become a student of light and you will become a brilliant photographer.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Printers

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:25:08 +0000

If your in the market for a printer (a good photo printer) you will undoubtedly be overwhelmed by the numerous products out there. As a photographer and bookmaker it is hugely important to have the best print quality and longevity available. I have done extensive tests with papers, printers, inks, sunlight exposure, indelibility (water proofness,) and just plain old wow factor with the final image in my hand. Epson far outshines every manufacturer on the market including Canon (sorry guys!) Canon is a great glossy print product, but to get unbelievable matte surface velvety prints with absolutely no banding in solid color washes such as a beautiful blue sky, Epson is, hands down the best.
Here are a few options to consider:
The best ink technology is the K3 inks found in the Epson Photo R2880. This is a 13inch wide printer with 8 different inks that will run you about $620.

If this is too big of an option for you right now then you can go with the Ultra High Definition Printer called the Epson Photo Stylus R280 with Claria Ink for a mere $100 bucks. This printer does beautiful glossy prints but is not that great with matte printing as is so desirable with the R2880. It still does a pretty good job and I know you will love this printer for the cost. Make sure you buy the high capacity inks as you will run through them quickly!
Happy printing!

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Hard Drives

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:12:15 +0000

Remember the days of Zip drives? Or, better yet, SyQuest drives??? If you don’t remember these, they were the predecessors to the DVD. I still have stacks of Zip drives somewhere in my garage. I now have spindle upon spindle and book upon book of DVDs. While fairly inexpensive they are not infallible. If you want to archive your files without fear of your archives being corrupt and unreadable in a few years, you might consider investing in the slightly more expensive, yet more time efficient and reliable hard drive. DVDs typically will run you 20 to 50 cents each for 4.7 gigabytes of space. I have several hard drives in my studio ranging from 640 gigs to 1 terabyte. The terabyte ran me $200 at Best Buy however, I just went to Costco for the regular shopping excursion and found 1 teras (same product) for $179 (18 cents per gig). The even better deal was a 640 gig for $95 which works out to about 15 cents per gig. If you like shopping on Amazon here is a steal: 1 terabyte for $118! Consider this: a DVD at it’s cheapest is 5 cents per gig and takes more time and space than a My Book Western Digital hard drive. I can “burn” 30 gigs of image files in about 25 minutes without operator assistance where that would take 7 DVDs, about an hour of time depending on your write speed and the issue of my needing to babysit the DVD burner, loading, unloading, writing on the DVD, inserting a new one, starting over for currupt DVDs that wouldn’t burn correctly. You have all experienced this. Isn’t our time more valuable? I know mine is, especially with a baby who is at the cusp of walking, YIKES! So get over to Costco (they don’t have the $95 640 gig or the $180 1000 gig online.) Tip: all hard drives are not created equally. From my research I have found Western Digital to be of the most reliable on the market.

Western Digital My Book Essential Edition 1 TB USB 2.0 External Hard Drive WDH1U10000N

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Sigma 50mm 1.4 EX DG HSM Lens

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 02:02:03 +0000

Technical Info:
Lens: Sigma 50mm 1.4 | Camera: Canon 1D MarkII
ISO 100 | f1.4 | 1/640 sec.

Last month I purchased the Sigma 50mm F1.4 EX DG HSM instead of getting the Canon 50mm 1.2 saving myself a bunch of money ($460 for the Sigma compared to $1,380 for the Canon) and potential headache. Click HERE to read more on the headache factor. Having used this lens for most of April I can honestly say I love it. The speed is good and the bokeh factor is so much better than that of the Canon 1.4. The only drawback was having fun with the little 58mm barrel size of the Canon 50mm 1.4 compared to the larger 77mm barrel size of the Sigma 50mm 1.4 when doing reverse lens mount macro shots. The 77mm is a bit too large to cover over the entire camera body opening and so you cannot get as clear and crisp an image as the the Canon (more light flair.) I am sure the same would be true for the Canon 50mm 1.2 with a 72mm barrel size, however I have not tried it in the reverse position.
Most comparisons you will read are between the Canon 50mm 1.4 and the Sigma 50mm 1.4 however, I feel that other than the aperture size, the Sigma 50mm 1.4 compares more to the Canon 50mm 1.2 due to size, mechanics, blade construction, reduced aberrations, focus methods, the lens coating methods, and the fact that it is weather sealed. All these important factors make the Sigma 50mm 1.4 a much better choice over the Canon 1.4 which is $400. Honestly, why would you NOT buy the Sigma for an extra $60.
I tend to buy all my lenses through Amazon because they have the best return policy and usually the best price. Make sure you test any lens you buy within the first 30 days to make sure you do not have any front or back focusing issues. (click the above headache factor link to learn more about focus problems with lenses.)
Below are a few links to get you to the Sigma Lens and the Canon 1.4 should you REALLY want to have the ability to shoot macro with it held inverted.

CANON USERS:
CANON 50mm 1.4
Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM Standard & Medium Telephoto Lens for Canon SLR Cameras

SIGMA 50mm 1.4 for Canon Cameras
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras

NIKON USERS:
NIKON 50mm 1.4
Nikon 50mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

SIGMA 50mm 1.4 for Nikon Cameras
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 EX DG HSM Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Understanding Lenses

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 01:52:22 +0000

I can say with certainty that the lens is the most important piece of equipment in your camera bag. Your digital camera body is only temporary. You will upgrade this as technology gets better. Kind of like your computer, you should upgrade about once every 2 years. Your lenses should not be purchased based on replacement. These are your gems. They will become trusted friends in a life full of photographs, so choose wisely, not cheaply. It is not the camera that makes a great photo, it is the lens (and the eye behind the lens, of course!) There are several factors that come into play when choosing a good quality lens.
1. The Glass
The glass must be of the highest quality to render the best clarity in your imagery.
For the best quality in glass you will look for the following: Nikon uses NIKKOR glass and Canon uses EF glass or Canon L Glass (the “L” stands for Luxury.) The optics in the EF L Series Glass (any Canon lens with a red ring around the barrel) are Canon’s best quality glass.
2. The Build
You want a lens that is not going to break on you. You will notice instantly the difference in weight between more expensive and less expensive lenses. Metal construction will outlast plastic. With the better lenses you will also want to make sure it is weather sealed.
3. The Mechanics
The zoom and focus rings should be smooth and feel good in your hand.
4. Image Stabilization and Vibration Reduction
Look for IS (Image Stabilization) for Canon Lenses and VR (Vibration Reduction) for Nikon Lenses. This allows you to shoot handheld up to three stops slower than normal.

Okay… so, all that said, let’s get down to the dirt! What lens should you buy? The question is always asked: “If you could only have one lens, what would it be?”
The short answer: Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM
The long answer: Why that lens and not the Canon EF 24-70mm f2.8 L USM?
Many photographers, and sales clerks, will tell you to go with the 24-70. It is faster by one stop at f2.8 rather than the 24-105′s f4.0. It is bigger, heavier, is more expensive (only by about $150), and looks meaner.
MY Answer based on MY usage of both lenses: The 24-70 does not have image stabilization (IS) and the clarity of your imagery is not as great. Bryan Carnathon from The-Digital-Picture.com states: “Very little contrast and saturation post-processing is necessary on most shots taken under good lighting.” The operative term being “under good lighting.” What I have found is under slightly sub par lighting the contrast and clarity are not as good as with the 24-105 but when stopped down to 4.0 they look very similar. Sooooo, why not extend your range by 35mm, gain 3 stops with the IS, and save some cash by going with the 24-105.

Other lenses to consider:
Canon EF 50mm 1.4 USM
There are three 50mm lenses in the Canon line: 1.8. 1.4, and 1.2
The 1.8 is only $100 and, in my opinion is not worth it. It only has a 5 blade aperture and it’s build makes it a throw away lens that will break the first chance it gets.
For just a couple hundred dollars more (around $300) you can get into a better build with 8 blade 1.4 lens. You will see a difference between the 1.4 and the 1.2 (also 8 blade) but it is not worth the extra $1000 (around $1,300) unless you are a professional photographer.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Best Starter Camera for the Money

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 01:42:37 +0000

I get the “what camera should I buy, but not too expensive” question all the time in regards to people who want to upgrade from a point and shoot to a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex).
Here is my recommendation:

Canon Rebel XSi 12.2MP with an EF-S 18-55mm IS Lens
Canon Digital Rebel XSi 12.2 MP Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (Black)

If you want to go really cheep, buy it used or try to find a new older version like the Rebel XT or XTi. You can usually find the body for around $260 or less and then buy a lens for $100 to get started. Don’t forget that you will need the following that tends to add about 25-50% extra in expenses: at least one or two 2GB or 4GB memory cards SanDisk Extreme III 4GB CF Card, one extra battery (Canon LP-E5 Battery for XSi), a UV lens filter (around $10), a flash Canon Speedlite 430EX Flash), and a camera bag.
Good luck and have fun!

Assisting

jenosullivan — Sat, 02 May 2009 01:34:17 +0000

If you have never assisted a wedding photographer before or you have and you were never given any guidelines, or you need to hire an assistant and do not know where to start, here is something you MUST read. If you are a pro and would like to add something please make a comment. Every shooter is different so these are MY guidelines for my assistants. Be the best assistant you can be so you can turn into the best wedding photographer you can be!

What to Wear

Look professional
All black (no faded black)
Best outfit: Black button up tailored shirt with black slacks
Black rubber soled shoes, think comfy and quiet (NO SANDALS OR OPEN TOED SHOES)
No nickers or sleeveless tops
No jewelry
Hair tied back if it is long (think wind and hair flying in the frame)
No perfume or cologne (definitely wear deodorant AND antiperspirant)

What to Bring

Camera with extra battery (make sure your sensor is cleaned and batteries are charged)
Flash unit with at least 12 AA batteries (it is a good idea to buy rechargeable batteries and bring the charger with you.)
2-4 CF cards (4 gig is best at this point unless the lead shooter tells you otherwise.)
Cooler in car with two water bottles.
Black sweater or coat.

Your Responsibilities

Check that your camera’s date and time stamp are correct.
Format all CF cards
Preform basic camera settings check (ISO, Exposure, Shoot Mode, etc.)
Shoot in RAW Mode
Never delete ANY image while shooting. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. It helps the lead shooter know that all images were downloaded correctly by doing a quick frist/last number check and comparing it to the total number of images you gave them.

Wedding Day Etiquette

Always introduce yourself as the assistant.
Never eat hors d’oeuvres, even when asked if you would like one.
Never take an alcoholic drink from a server, even when asked if you would like one.
When you need to take a break or get a drink, let the lead shooter know and do so out of the sight of guests.
Eat dinner when & where the lead tells you (let them know prior to the event if you are a vegetarian, vegan, or have any unusual dietary needs.)
Client/guest interaction is okay in VERY small and short amounts.
Never have a lengthy conversation with anyone.
Take the shot and move on. Try not to chimp. If you are having issues, remove yourself from the sight of guests and figure out the problem. DO NOT stand in the middle of the dance floor staring at your LCD screen.
When shooting guest couple shots, always take two in case of blinking.
Never show your expression if you are unhappy with the shot.
If it is wrong say “Oh, you guys look GREAT! Let me take another one!”

Shooting Tip: Camera Mode for Night Time Reception Shots in Dim Conditions (MUST USE FLASH UNIT)

ISO 100
Mode set to Manual
f/8 at 1/8 sec. to 1/30 sec.
Flash set to ETTL +2/3
Omni Bounce on and flash head cocked to 45 degree angle
Be at a distance of 3 to 6 feet from guests. This means you must get in the action.

NOTE: All shots are owned by the company you are working for. Check with the owner to see what usage rights, if any, you have.

IMPORTANT: ALWAYS STAY OUT OF THE LEAD SHOOTER’S FRAME WHEN SHOOTING. DO NOT STAND DIRECTLY OPPOSING THEM. ALWAYS STAND TO THE SIDE AND SHOOT SO YOU DO NOT GET IN THEIR FRAME. IF YOU SEE THEM IN YOUR FRAME THEN THEY CAN SEE YOU IN THEIRS. MOVE AWAY WITHOUT CAUSING ATTENTION TO YOURSELF. IN OTHER WORDS, DON’T DUCK, JUST MOVE AT A NORMAL PACE.

Jen OSullivan

Portrait Lighting Using Reflectors

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Studio Strobe Lighting

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

The Magic Hour

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Lighting

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Printers

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Hard Drives

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Sigma 50mm 1.4 EX DG HSM Lens

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Understanding Lenses

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Best Starter Camera for the Money

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Assisting

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan http://www.jenosullivan.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Copyright © 2009 by Jen O’Sullivan
http://www.jenosullivan.com
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.